Clip, clop, clip, clop ... the sound of high heels on cement.

Intimidating, somewhat, but leads the way for a beautifully sophisticated, minimal (new direction!) collection from Francisco Costas for Calvin Klein. It's structured and architectural. Amazing boiled wool tail coats in gray and black graced the runway. As did cozy cocoons of wool felt with oversized snap closures. For evening, how about black satin pants with vests (my fave vest), wool with a cut-out back. (Want it!)

There were also sequined dresses mixed with boiled wool trim, a great black oversized blazer worn by Liya (love seeing her on the runway, she always looks so calm). The gowns are Lurex pleats in plum, and a greeny/gray, really the only relief from black. The girls are slicked back pony-tailed androids, and as usual at a Calvin show, I feel I have on too much makeup, too much hair, and my clothes are too bright. Great.

-Finola Hughes